• Its Father’s Day, a day to celebrate the person who is my constant source of inspiration and from whom I get my daily dose of wisdom, every now and then! Here I give you a slice of it :). This recommended feature is a speech delivered to the class of 2006 at the IIM, Bangalore on defining success by Subroto Bagchi CEO Mind Tree.

    I was the last child of a small time government servant in a family of five brothers. My earliest memory of my father is as that of District Employment Officer in Koraput, Orissa. It was, and remains as back of beyond as you can imagine. There was no electricity; no primary school nearby and water did not flow out of a tap . As a result, I did not go to school until the age of eight; I was home schooled. My father used to get transferred every year. The family belongings fit into the back of a jeep – so the family moved from place to place and without any trouble, my Mother would set up an establishment and get us going. Raised by a widow who had come as a refugee from the then East Bengal, she was a matriculate when she married my Father. My parents set the foundation of my life and the value system, which makes me what I am today and largely, defines what success means to me today. As District Employment Officer, my father was given a jeep by the government. There was no garage in the Office, so the jeep was parked in our house. My father refused to use it to commute to the office. He told us that the jeep is an expensive resource given by the government, he reiterated to us that it was not “his jeep” but the government’s jeep. Insisting that he would use it only to tour the interiors, he would walk to his office on normal days. He also made sure that we never sat in the government jeep – we could sit in it only when it was stationary. This was our early childhood lesson in governance – a lesson that corporate managers learn the hard way, some never do.

    The driver of the jeep was treated with respect due to any other member of my Father’s office. As small children, we were taught not to call him by his name. We had to use the suffix ‘dada’ whenever we were to refer to him in public or private. When I grew up to own a car and a driver by the name of Raju was appointed. I repeated the lesson to my two small daughters. They have, as a result, grown up to call Raju, ‘Raju Uncle’ – very different from many of their friends who refer to their family driver, as ‘my driver’. When I hear that term from a school or college going person, I cringe. To me, the lesson was significant – you treat small people with more respect than how you treat big people. It is more important to respect your subordinates that you superiors.

    Our day used to start with the family huddling around my Mother’s chulla – an earthern fire place she would build at each place of posting where she would cook for the family. There was neither gas, nor electrical stoves. The morning routine started with tea. As the brew was served, Father would ask us to read aloud the editorial page of The Statesman’s ‘muffosil’ edition – delivered one day late. We did not understand much of what we were reading. But the ritual was meant for us to know that the world was larger than Koraput district and the English I speak today, despite having studied in an Oriya medium school has to do with that routine. After reading the newspaper aloud, we were told to fold it neatly. Father taught us a simple lesson. He used to say, “You should leave your newspaper and your toilet, the way you expect to find it”. That lesson was about showing consideration to others,. Business begins and ends with that simple precept.

    Being small children, were always enamoured with advertisments in the newspaper for transistor radios – we did not have one. We saw other people having radios in their homes and each time there was an advertisement of Philips, Murphy or Bush radios, we would ask Father when we could get one. Each time, my Father would reply that we did not need one because he already had five radios – alluding to his five sons. We also did not have a house of our own and would occasionally ask Father as to when, like others, we would live in our own house. He would give a similar reply, “We do not need a house of our own, I already own five houses”. His replies did not gladden our hearts in that instant. Nonetheless we; learnt that it is important not to measure personal success and sense of well being through material possessions.

    Government houses seldom came with fences. Mother and I collected twigs and built a small fence. After lunch, my other would never sleep. She would take her kitchen utensils and with those she and I would dig the rocky, white ant infested surrounding. We planted flowering bushes. The white ants destroyed them. My mother brought ash from her chulha and mixed it in the earth and we planted the seedlings all over again. This time they bloomed. At that time, my father’s transfer order came. A few neighbours told my mother why she was taking so much pain to beautify a government house, why she was planting seeds that would only benefit the next occupant. My mother replied that it did not matter to her that she would not see the flowers in full bloom. She said “I have to create a bloom in a desert and whenever I am given a new place, I must leave it more beautiful than what I had inherited.” That was my first lesson in Success.

    It is not about what you create for yourself, it is what you leave behind that defines Success. My mother began developing a cataract in her eyes when I was very small. At that time, the eldest among my brothers got a teaching job at the University in Bhubaneswar and had to prepare for the cvil services examination. So, it was decided that my Mother would move to cook for him and, as her appendage, I had to move too. For the first time in my life I saw electricity in homes and water coming out of a tap. It was around 1965 and the country was going to war with Pakistan. My mother was having problems reading and in anycase, being Bengali, she did not know the Oriya script. So in addition to my daily chores, my job was to read her the local newspaper – end to end. That created in me a sense of connectedness with a larger world. I began taking interest in many different things. While reading out new about the war, I felt that I was fighting the war myself. She and I discussed the daily news and built a bond the the larger universe. In it, we became part of a larger reality. Till date, I measure my success in terms of that sense of larger connectedness. Meanwhile, the war raged and India was fighting on both fronts. Lal Bahadur Shastri, the then Primer Minister, coined the term “Jai Jawan, Jai Kishan” and galvanized the nation in to patriotic fervour. Other than reading out the newspaper to my mother, I had no clue about how I could be part of the action. So, after reading her the newspaper, every day I would land up near the University water tank, which served the community. I would spend hours under it, imagining that there could be spied would come to poison the water and I had to watch for them. I would daydream about catching one and how the next day. I would be featured in the newspaper. Unfortunately for me, the spied at war ignored the sleepy town of Bhubaneswar and I never got a chance to catch one in action. Yet, that act unlocked my imagination. Imagination is everything. If we can imagine a future, we can create it, if we can create that future, others will lie in it. That is the essence of success.

    Over the next few years, my mother’s eyesight dimmed but in me she created a larger vision, a vision with which I continue to see the world and, I sense, though my eyes, she was seeing too. As the next few years unfolded, her vision deteriorated and she was operated for cataract. I remember, when she returned after her operation and she saw may face clearly for the first time, she was astonished. She said, “Oh my God, I did not know you were so fair:. I remain mighty pleased with that adulation even till date. Within weeks of getting her sight back, she developed a corneal ulcer and, overnight, became blind in both eyes. That was 1969. She died in 2002. In all those 32 years of Living with blindness, she never complained about her fate even once. Curious to know what she saw with blind eyes, I asked her once if she sees darkness. She replied, “No, I do not see darkness. I only see light ever with my eyes closed. Until she was eighty years of age, she did her morning yoga everyday, swept her own room and washed her own clothes. To me, success is about the sense of independence; it is about not seeing the world but seeing the light. Over the many intervening years, I grew up, studied, joined the industry and began to carve my life’s own journey. I began my life as a clerk in a government office, went on to become a Management Trainee with the DCM group and eventually found my life’s calling with the IT industry when fourth generation computers came to India in 1981.

    Life took me places – I worked with outstanding people, challenging assignments and travelled all over the world. In 1992, while I was posted in the US, I learnt that my father, living a retired life with my eldest brother, had suffered a third degree burn injury and was admitted in the Safderjung Hospital in Delhi. I flew back to attend to him – he remained for a few days in critical, stage, bandaged form neck to toe. The Safderjung Hospital is a cockroach infested, dirty inhuman place. The overworked, under resourced sisters in the burn ward are both victims and perpetrators of dehumanized life at its worst. One morning, while attending to my Father, I realised that the blood bottle was empty and fearing that air would go into his vein, I asked the attending nurse to change it. She bluntly told me do it myself. In that horrible theatre of death, I was in pain and frustration and anger. Finally when she relented and came, my Father opened his eyes and murmured to he, “Why have you not gone home yet?” Here was a man on his deathbed but more concerned about the overworked nurse than his own state. I was stunned at his stoic self. There I learnt that there is no limit to how concerned you can be for another human being and what the limit of inclusion is you can create. My father did the next day. He was a man whose success was defined by his principles, the frugality, his inversalism and his sense of inclusion.

    Above all, he taught me that success is your ability to rise above your discomfort, whatever may be your current state, You can, if you want, raise your consciousness above your immediate surroundings. Success is not about building material comforts – the transistor that never could buy or the house that never owned his success was about the legacy he felt, the memetic continuity of his ideals that grew beyond the smallness of a ill paid, unrecognised government servants’s world. My father was a fervent believer in the British Raj. He sincerely doubted the capability of the post independence Indian political parties to govern the country. To him, the lowering of the Jnion Jack was a sad event. My Mother was the exact opposite. When Subhash Chandra Bose quit the Indian National Congress, and came to Dacca, my mother, then a school girl garlanded him. She leant to spin khadi and joined an underground movement that trained her in using daggers and swords. Consequently, our household saw diversity in the political outlook of the two. On major issues concerning the world, the Old Man and the Old Lady had differing opinions. In them, we learnt the pwer of disagreements, of dialogue and the essence of living with diversity in thinking. Success is not about the ability to create a definitive dogmatic end state; it is about the unfolding of thought processes, of dialogue and continuum.

    Two years back, at the age of eighty two Mother had a paralytic stroke and was lying in a government hospital in Bhubaneswar. I flew down from the US where I was serving my second stint, to see her. I spent two weeks with her in the hospital as she remained in a paralytic state. She was neither getting better nor moving on. Eventually I had to return to work. While leaving her behind, I kissed her face. In that paralytic state and a garbled voice, she said “Why are you kissing me, go kiss the world.” Her river was nearing its journey, at the confluence of life and death, this woman who came to India as a refugee, raised by a widowed Mother, no more educated that high school, married to an anonymous government servant whose last salary was Rupees Three Hundred, robbed of her eyesight by fate and crowned by adversity was telling me to go and kiss the world!

    Success to me is about Vision. It is the ability to rise above the immediacy of pain. It is about imagination. It is about sensitivity to small people. It is about building inclusion. It is about connectedness to a larger world existence. It is about personal tenacity. It is about giving back more to life that you take out of it. It is about creating extra ordinary success with ordinary lives. Go ! Kiss the world!!!

  • Guest Diary #1

    On the occasion of doing 100 posts and 100 comments on my blog am very happy to introduce to you all my super talented friend Tanvi Sanghani who’s sharing some amazing pictures from Italy and Greece.

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    Tanvi is a globe-trotter who travels with her lens and a firm hand. Her pictures are stunning, as you will see, and her love for landscapes, immense. In this one special post, the pictures, and well, Tanvi do all the talking!

    Starting off with Tanvi’s travel map..

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    1. Rome

    “Carpe Diem” ~ Horace

    As Horace so wisely said “carpe diem”, when one has only half a day in Rome, to re-explore the Flavian Amphitheater is indeed seizing the day.

    The Colosseum is rightly coined as one of the Seven Wonders of the World. Built with stone and concrete, this elliptical amphitheater was the largest one of the Roman Empire and could accommodate between 50,000 to 80,000 spectators. Gladiatorial contests and public spectacles such as animal hunts and executions were held here.

    2. Vasto

    “A well balanced equation”

    According to tradition, Diomedes, the Greek hero founded this town of Vasto, a town and comune on the Adriatic coast in southern Italy.

    A must visit for all those who crave an unspoiled Mediterranean experience – Refreshingly quiet beaches and the blue Adriatic Sea in the East, with mountains tucked away in the west.

    3. Grotte di Castellana

    “Water! Every drop counts”

    The magnificent Stalactite and Stalagmite formations of this limestone grotto (cave) that goes 70 meters below ground are witness to this! The finest formations can be viewed in Grotta Bianca (The White Cave), where everything is sparkling white! Not advisable to people who suffer from claustrophobia – but otherwise, another must see!

    4. Gargano’s Coast

    “The cure for anything is salt water: sweat, tears or the sea.” ~ Isak Dinesen

    Driving along this coast, you will be amazed at how vivid the blue waters and how white the beaches are! This peninsular region is still partly covered by an ancient Foresta Umbra.

    We spent a day driving along the coast, and stopped at an organic farm deep within the forest to feast on homemade delicacies and brewed wine. The spread was so elaborate that we took almost three hours to do justice to the fine Italian cooking. And as per the Italian tradition, we polished our meal, with a few shots of the bright yellow Limoncello Liqueur – an immensely popular Sothern Italian digestif.

    5. Florence

    “Life offers you a thousand chances. All you have to do is take one.” ~ Under The Tuscan Sun.

    Ranked by Forbes as one of the most beautiful cities in the world, Florence can indeed take your heart away! Florence is the capital and the most populous city in the region of Tuscany, Italy.

    Three of my favorite spots in Florence were –

    The Santa Maria del Fiore aka the Duomo di Firenze – one of the most beautiful cathedrals I’ve seen and the symbol of the city.

    Giotto’s Tower adjacent to the Duomo, that gives you a magnificent 360-degree view of the Duomo once you climb the 414 steps!

    Ponte Vecchio – the oldest and the most famous bridge on Arno – the only Florentine bridge to survive the WW2. Viewing the sun set from this bridge is quite a magical experience!

    6. Venice

    “Words can’t express what you mean to me” ~ Puff Daddy

    118 little islands in the Venetian Lagoon, separated by canals and yet connected by bridges form the city of Venice. The only way to get around this pedestrian-one of a kind-city is by using water taxis or walking.

    No words can do justice to describe the romantic charm of this city, so I’ll just let my pictures do the talking!

    7. Athens

    One of the oldest cities in the world. The cradle for western civilization. The birthplace of democracy.

    It is known for the Parthenon (the Temple of Goddess Athina) in the Acropolis (Upper City), The Temple of Zeus, Hadrian’s Arch, Hadrian’s Library and so much more!

    Out of all these places, my favorites were:

    The Acropolis – because it stands at a height of 512 feet and gives you a splendid 360 degree view of the Attica region and the Aegean Sea (on a clear sunny day).

    The Monastiraki Square – that gets its name from few remains of the ‘Great Monastery’. This square is extremely vibrant and has a perfect blend of the old and the new – the ruins of ancient monuments, the Tzistarakis Mosque as well as the upbeat flea market!

    The Plaka – aka the “Neighborhood of the Gods” due to its proximity to the Acropolis. It’s known for its labyrinthine streets filled with souvenir shops and little eateries that serve authentic Greek delicacies, and neoclassical architecture.

    8. Idra (Hydra)

    “The sea is emotion incarnate. It loves, hates, and weeps. It defies all attempts to capture it with words and rejects all shackles. No matter what you say about it, there is always that which you can’t.” ― Christopher Paolini, Eragon

    When you say Greece, one of the first things that come to one’s mind is Santorini. By all means, Santorini is gorgeous, but the Saronic Island of Idra is just as beautiful. It has a crescent-shaped harbor, around which is centered a strand of restaurants, shops, markets, and galleries. Steep stone streets lead up and outwards to the gentle slopes of the island from the harbor area, and are filled with little white houses, blue doors and windows!

    9. Corinth

    The ancient city Corinth, or Korinth (Greek: Kórinthos) was a city-state (polis) on the Isthmus of Corinth and was occupied from at least as early as 6500 BC. The highlights of these ruins are the Temple of Apollo and the Fountain of Pierene.

    In present day, Corinth has become an island as the Corinth Canal cuts through the narrow Isthmus of Corinth and separates the Peloponnesian peninsula from the Greek mainland. It connects the Gulf of Corinth with the Saronic (Aegean) Gulf.

    The pictures are art (sigh!) and Tanvi, can be reached at tanvisanghani@gmail.com!

  • “Do you know a cure for me?”

    Why yes,” he said, “I know a cure for everything. Salt water.”

    Salt water?” I asked him.

    Yes,” he said, “in one way or the other. Sweat, or tears, or the salt sea.” 
    ―    Karen Blixen,    Seven Gothic Tales

    Finally a trip on a ship. The nautical wonders have always caught my fancy. The sailor stripes, the navy tweaked with white, the ocean balm, Jack Sparrow and need I say more!

    There is something amazing about a vessel that holds good Archimedes principle of Buoyancy that too with an large dose of luxury. The Royal Carribean Legend of the Seas has all the makes of a rather 5-star property and an added advantage of taking you places. In our case, the sleepy (at the risk of sounding obnoxious) town of Penang and the bustling capital city of Malyasia, KL.

    Ofcourse, the ship caters to all kinds of activities, of which I’d rather warn about the food spread. From the unlimited buffet to the sit-down dining experience. The formality of the daily dining is so different from the laisser faire attitude everywhere else. But importantly the waistline certainly does take a huge beating, what with all the yummmy spreads, even the salads seem highly calorific!

    Nevertheless by enagaging in all things else on board, the rock-climing, the running on the deck, spa sessions, not to forget, swimming and a dip in the Roman Baths that one issue can be dealt with. The casino I steered clear of but otherwise the shows and the dancing offer a good respite too! A show of Russian ballet had most of us keeping our eyes peeled the stage. The flexibility of the Olympic performers was simply spectacular. I must mention that the ship also had a well-stocked library! But my favorite activity on board was to sit on the top most deck engulfed by the balmy ocean air. Add to that chilling under the moonlight, even better!

    Destination 1 – Penang is rather charming. Actually the city’s bestest show is the artworks trail done casually on walls. With temperatures melting and wearing out the travellers, the art works provide some comic relief. Must say 8 hours are a lot to cover the city, from the near extinct fort to the well-preserved shop houses, leaving enough time for a coffee break at Old Town Coffee place. Relaxing!

    Destination 2 – KL’s charm for me lies in Petrona’s twin towers, the Shopping Centre and ofcourse the Old Market Square. The rosy brick building is a favorite. Since the ship takes a halt at Port Klang, KL is a while away. The drive gives one an impression of how spread out the city is, but its really from the KL tower that one can really see how green the city also is. The King of Malaysia (a rotatory post) has a sprawling new residential estate that could well remind one of the Raisina Hill, giving him a spectacular view of the city. Lesser mortals can only get a glimpse of the gate, the guards and the horses!

    The beauty of the Ocean is clearly felt, how it changes at different times and all, besides one is treated to all the shades of blue. I could stand on the deck all day and thankfully not get hit by flying fish or have any encounters with one Mr Richard Parker! 😉

    P.s. thats a quote by the author of the book am currently reading, “Out of AFrica”. A book that I read so slowly cause I do not want it to end! 😉

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    With a detoured landing in Malaga from Barca, the journey to Granada was elongated by a while. But the drive through the Spanish countryside was an added bonus. Huge estates lined with farms and flat plains, yes yes where it mainly rains, well to thank one Ms Hepburn.

    Granada was the coldest in the season, the information board said 8 degrees. Getting out and hitting the streets we first made our way to the beautiful Moorish Palace of Alhambra. The text Alhambra is inscribed all over the intricate molding work of the entire palace. The palace was built by the moors then conquered by the Catholic Church and then again re-used. There is a striking likeness to the Palaces we see in India. From intricate patterns to elaborate workings and a beautiful setting in rolling hills it has all the ingredients that make is striking.I for one became a big fan of the geometric pattern that adorns the main palace and ofcourse the lions court. The court has a fountain of lions in the centre. Several courtyards and gardens make up the conglomerates palace. Orange trees and rose bushes that were in full bloom at the time in the misty air create a quality of wonder. What ultimately made the visit and palace a special is the sudden and unexpected snowfall in the mid-afternoon. Within the circular drum-like courtyard the lovely snow twirled much like a snow-globe.

    As it was my first snow-fall its an experience I would not forget and just completely understand why snow-fall is rated so magical. Cause it really is magical, and nothing short of that. The twirling snow was a sight and though repeatedly warned about being careful on the wet cobble-stone path I couldn’t care less and flit around! With snow-flakes resting on my nose and eye-lashes, yes it’s one of my favorite things too Miss Andrew, I took in the breathtaking beauty of Alhambra.

    The sweeping views of Granada from the Palace is completely worthy of an emperor. The gardens or jar dins
    as the moors called it are quintessentially Spanish with a brush of the brilliant French elements. Parts are well-groomed and parts are au natural.

    Lunch at Alhambra, served up really good fare, from the French onion soup to the delicious mocha mousse.

    The city is equally enthralling and very focused on retaining the right human scale. The street lights for one set a very modern tone on a very antique background. The whole city seemed much like that, an equal measure of the old and the new. Ale-hop caught my interest first in Granada and consequentially in all of Spain.

    The day at Granada was well-spent and armed with a digital documentation of the palace, the architecture of which I plan to write more about and share, we headed out of Spain.

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    This post is very special. Not just because it is the 100th but because its about my favouritest (so far!) European city of Lisbon.

    The capital city of Portugal is simply a perfect blend of all that is Portuguese and is the only European capital city on the Atlantic. In addition it is city that offers so many surprises from its very urban fabric to the people who fill in the stage. Renting out an apartment on Rua Janeles Verdes means that one is at literally a walking distance into the various quarters of Lisbon. Becoming a Lisboeta has one zipping up the knee length boots, wearing an easy smile and a working up a huge appetite for egg tarts. Hitting the streets late evening we were sure glad that the city stays open quite late. As pubs and restaurants overflowed onto the pavements, an atmosphere of cheer encouraged us to walk (quite fearlessly) all about town. Statistical evidence rates Lisbon as one of the safest cities in Europe.

    On the first evening we found our way to the Rua de Prata, which quite conveniently locates the major banks and the chic shops. The Sighting of the Santa-Juxta elevator off this Rua, is exciting, an urban elevator that is ancient, built by a protege of Gustav Eiffel, it looked fantastic but didnt dwell on us the great truth yet. Then taking the famous Tram 28 into the older Alfama quarter. The tram ride was wholly entertaining, the tram driver sits in the centre, and ours seemed factiously wicked. Marking terse breaks, sounding the shrill alarm and driving with spite. Finally as the final stop of Martim Moniz presented itself, our man dramatically stopped the tram, got up, turned around and screamed ‘This is the last stop. Get Out’. Any other place I wouldve expected a fist-fight, but hey this was Lisbon. As I was just thinking that ‘can he do that’, everyone else on the tram burst into laughs and alighted all in good faith.  Acceptance, thats the first key to happiness. Just like that.

    On the tram, the narrowness of the streets and the fact that the trams share space with the automobiles creates an utter chaos. Actually endearing chaos. Later sharing laughs on the eccentric tram driver, there there he’s going to be unforgettable already, we met a Danish-Argentinian, farmer-writer, couple and walked together to Baixa, the bestest and funnest district. Late already, but a quick dinner at the Baixa Chiado, the mall is killer, got us to get home. Walking back we realised, solely relying on us instincts and directional sense, the way back didnt seem the same, we were on an elevation, but the roads led all the way down to the shore and suddenly thats when the great urban revelation dawned on us. The city is built in levels, but so intelligently that it doesnt feel so, the upper levels dont dwarf the lower ones, in fact they are all so unassuming. So excited were we, that we simply had to unravel the city as we kept coming back the next few days.

    Baixa-Chiado though is full of activity, from street-performers, to tourists, to cafes, and shops. Shopping, ice-cream in winter, and long walks are up on offer here, and entertainment galore while you are playing your part on the stage. A Fado performance was one of the treats we lapped up at Baixa. The Fado is a traditional singing style mostly tragic and sometimes happy, that captures a mood. Personally I loved the happy ones, the tragic ones have their own merit. The Fado evolves from a deep throaty singing style, its a popular pastime in the evenings taken in conjunction with the balmy ocean breeze. Though we had to cover a lot around Lisbon, we found ourselves coming back here at every instance we got. It simply was irresisitable.

    At this point I need to mention a tiny restaurant in Lisbon, called Taverna Portuguesa. Run by young chaps with much passion. As we entered the homely and lovely ambience we were greeted by the owner/chef/waitor who set us onto a table and promptly served us with olive (I heart), cheese, bread and orange marmalade. Cheese was to be eaten with marmalade. A great combination. Later when I complemented him on the marmalade he says, ‘its easy, you can make it at home’ before sharing the recipe. Just like that! These people never ceased to surprise me.

    Another thing to mention is that they use the Century gothic font in all the train sign ages! The graphics are cool and the Baixa-Chiado station looks like a disco 😀

    Of all the day-trips Lisbon offers, the one to Sintra is the best. The dreamy Sintra Palace and the Castle are unparalleled in terms of beauty and fantasy on a roll. And Lisbon prides itself with various modes of transport, the modes to getting about are taxis, bus, tram, train or the metro.

    After reading much about the fairytale palace of Sintra I couldn’t hold my excitement as the train pulled in. Quickly downing egg tarts and coffee, we made our way to the castle and Pena Palace of Sintra. The palace is beautiful, much because of its location and much because of its make. Its compact and unlike grand palaces we Indians are so used to. This one atop a hill and is very much like what one would imagine as a tale of beauty. Misty weather added to the dreamy quality of the palace. Yes dreamy, thats probably the best description of the palace. The queens quarters in a combination of scarlet, fuchsia and rose pink and the ‘India’ room filled with gifts from the Indian Emperor are startling features of the Interiors. On the outside the palace is designed with elaborate classic features. The style of the palace can be described as Romantic Classicism. The rose trees (!) had pretty flowers in bloom, and such tall rose shrubs are beautiful. Settling down to capture the imagery on paper I drew out a version of the dreamy palace. At the palace, upon strong recommendations we got the Queijadas, a cinnamon spiced sweet bake traditional to Sintra.

    Spreading cheer on Valentines, we bought charity paper hearts and did our bit to help school children to add to their charity fund for Africa. Lunch at Sintra, for vegetarians is again, freshly boiled veggies in Pasta, the broccoli is my recommendation. Beware though the Portuguese are very generous with everything, including their helpings! Just like us Indian 😀

    Next up is the Castle, and a long long walk up to the summit. More of the Husband’s domain I would say, his love for mossy/green stone walls got us hiking all the way up the Castle. The sight of Sintra below was very well worth the hike. At the Sintra town, cute little art shops offer interesting pieces.

    And very very reluctantly we made our way out of Sintra, feeling dreamy of course.

    Off the city centre in Lisbon is the Tower of Belem, the watch-tower and symbolic stance that saw-off and received the brave and talented Portuguese nautical personnel who set off on far off adventures. Getting off at the Belem stop we stumbled into the Belem Cultural Centre by Portugal’s celebrated architect Eduardo Souto de Moura. It was stunning. With block of commanding proportion and ratios it was a starkly resplendent example of contemporary Portuguese architecture. The kind of my liking. Art on display made my day! Then to fill in at a breakfast place by the tower.

    The tower of Belem is poetry in Marble. The 4-5 storey tower is mostly illustrated as a saving messiah during rough seas. Something that offers bountiful blessings to the sailors. It is in fact also a prison for political prisoners brought from plunders of the sailors. A short walk from here is the Praca Imperio, and a constellations of ‘museos’. A church and an attached monastery complete the complex. The Italian influences are hugely visible here, ofcourse with a Portuguese twist. Perfect light quality makes the architecture extremely dramatic. The Museums held Portuguese archaeologic collections.

    Another thing amazing area in Lisbon is the Oriente Station of Calatrava, the Parque das Nacoes, the Vasco de Gama mall. Interestingly the malls in Portugal seem to have a tad bit of regionalism without completely bowing down to the American mall culture blindly. The Portuguese Pavilion is another personal favourite. The Ponte Vasco de Gama looks stunning over a cable car ride in the area, while the Lisbon Science centre is very engaging.

    Needless to say after all that we went back to Chiado. One last time before heading out of Portugal. Hopefully not for good. 😀

    P.s A great country to let down presumptions, assumptions, prejudices and all else one may have. Architecture is stark but friendly, much in sync with my beliefs of good architecture. At Belem we sighted a yachting centre that I might have quite easily been inspired by, for my thesis of well, a yachting centre. Portugal is very endearing, everyone seems to be encouraged to set their own pace. They understand quite well that no two souls are the same. They seem to more than tolerate, celebrate that. One can hardly be another brick in the wall here. Lisbon is simply unforgettable and a definite favourite.

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  • If Portugal gets an ample hold on the Atlantic and the Mediterranean, it bestows all its grandeur on the coastline of Algarve and dotting the southern-most region are the picturesque towns of Sagrez, Loule, Faro, Tavira and Lagos. And the famed Carnival of the country is traditionally celebrated in the month of February at most of the towns. Loule’s carnival being a highlight.

    Driving across the region is the best way to see the destination and allows one to go on their own path of discovery in theh vastly untouched terrain. One place where man-made loses its meaning, its nature reigning all the way. In winters, the temperature is mild, clear blue skies envelope even bluer waters. There is no way of not losing heart to the clear blue enclosing the orange-red rocky formations.

    While Sagrez as the southern most point of the country offers brilliant horizon sighting, Lagos is the laid-back yachting town where every house has parked in a sail-boat as against the usual car. Imagine towing down your sail-boat down to the jetty and sailing away. Without the toils in sight it certainly is an enticing picture. Stopping-by for a dialect of Brie, Lagos cuts the mark.

    With Faro as the centre-point all the other towns can be driven into at a maximum of two hours. Loule hosted its annual Carnival with much pomp and gusto. The whole town literally comes onto the street to parade in a theme wearing costumes and jiving. Its a day to let down your hair and dress up like a fantasy character amidst music and familiars, tourists like us were rare. It felt like we crashed on a house party, but the Portuguese being Portuguese, one feels most welcome. Children seem to have the best time, running into the party fervour and wearing out an active imagination.

    Tavira on the other hand holds onto a relative degree of stiffness, of quaintness held together by generous classic helpings. Cobble-stone streets pave the entire town as time seems to stand very still in the white-washed homes flanking the narrow lanes.

    The best part of Algarve though are not the towns, its the untouched or rather unharmed trove of nature that is nothing short of beautiful, stunning or spectacular. Everything else seems tertiary, not even secondary.

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    Barcs as it is lovingly called looks like a dream at an elevation of 10,000 ft. Yes from the aircraft. The city in the early morning shines next to the aqua blue waters as the largest metropolitan on the Mediterranean Sea. My fellow passenger, a soul from a distant Catalan town of Girona couldn’t contain his excitement to show-off the city and its landmarks. Gaudi was an oft-repeated word in the conversation. But naturally.

    Upon touch-down, the airport hosts a warm welcome. It boasts of the fine lines and heavenly details that the contemporary Spanish architecture scene is famous for. Soon to realise that it only marks a beginning. Going by the fact that the taxi drivers welcomed us with a ‘namaste’ it didnt take us long to love the ‘scam city’!

    Christopher Columbus stands proof of the great journeys that the sailors of the land took, one of which found us the ‘land of opportunity’ too. With just 24 hours to spend in Barca, what would one do? Call friends in the city for sure!

    Settling into our hotel at La Rambla, we dug into the warm Spanish Omlettes comprising of potato cubes folded into the whisked egg mix. And rightly raring to go, we hit the streets. Our first stop – the Cathedral, upon reaching the plaza in front of the Cathedral we were greeted with bustling people holding hands and doing a traditional dance. Little children in costume posed for pretty pictures, the carnival mood was surely on. Making our own little circle we danced as well soaking in the festivities.

    A quick peek into the Cathedral later the agenda was to hit the town. A walkathon would rightly describe it. Our hosts quickly made a route taking one through all the landmarks of the Grand city. Such a pity that the city stays largely shut on a Sunday, the Spanish surely know how to relax and rightly chill. The public buildings though (read the Gaudi buildings) are fortunately open. As Pranay and Natalie walked us through the innumerable plazas and surprise by-lanes, narrow cobble-stone streets, the city came alive as the day drew on. Loving long walks would only add to one’s delight in Barca. La Rambla during the day is no different than the night. Yeah yeah the regulars will disagree but hey it was a Sunday. In the cool wintry climes, trees bare to reveal architecture in all its might.

    The first thing that strikes me is the uncanny resemblance the urban planning first seems like that of Paris. Well actually the impeccable grooming of the French Capital takes a hike here. Its just a bit more chilled, a bit more relaxed, cutting, well all the corners. The octagonal junctions with chamfered corners make the junctions and nodes that bit more friendly, the pavements as the centre stretch flanked by roads and then again by walkways literally put the pedestrian in the spotlight. And the pleasure in walking in made kinda obvious. On the blessed day with blue skies, the sun up and cool breeze we made our way to Marmalade (a special entry on much recommendation). Graffiti on the inner lanes may exhibit a lot of vandalistic tendency, but the people surely had a lot to say. I wouldnt imagine why one would spend all their talent to spell out ‘idiot’ so artistically. Political agenda, maybe.

    Marmalade is a typical brunch place, an obvious favourite with the expatriates in town. Spectacularly I stuck with a Hot chocolate and filled in for the Gaudi revelation.

    Walking across town, the Le Pedrera came first. All is well but from afar the skull shaped balconies were definitely a little creepy. Gaudi lovers please dont pick up the vase yet, I do have a lot of amazing things to say. The Pakistani and Indian stores that remain open on SUndays are a boon! Just saying. Anyway the cranes surmounting the unfinished Sagrada can be sighted from a lot of places in the city, we discovered as we walked. Something that was quite endearing about Barca is that unlike Paris, the urban design does not seem to dictate the vocabulary of the architecture. There are quite a few startling examples that wedge between erstwhile buildings. The architects do seem to have the much loved ‘free hand’.

    With all shops shut, the Land of MANGO and ZARA put me on a single minded agenda thereafter, it was called Gaudi.

    The Sagrada is quite unassuming in terms of its location, a turn here and a bend later there it was located right in front of a foyer of a green. A long Que. and an audio book later the lift took us up to one of the completed towers. The view of the city from atop is simply spectacular. And the beach looks inviting. And the breeze, super. There is that something about having the wind in my hair that I can absolutely not get enough of. Sigh. ANyway. Climbing down isn serious business!

    But once down, entering the Sagrada made an indelible impression on me. The quality of light, the arches, the windows are all at a completely different level. It is definitely one of the best examples of architecture, I would rate it close to the Pantheon, my personal favourite. As I tuned in the audiobook and soaked in the magnificent church I felt the b of bliss. Losing oneself in architecture is inevitable here. Remarkable how Gaudi spent over 40 years on his labor of love. Just as my ‘non-architectural’ Husband nodded his head in disbelief and disapproval. The facades are not all completed, Gaudi decided to give the younger architects a chance to leave a mark on his church.

    The front elevation is the last one that I finally saw, and well I didn’t really take to it. The skulls, bones and a romanticising couple, really Mr Gaudi??? on a Church front??? I get it, Gaudi is inspired by nature, I am too. But skulls on a building, quite dark I would think, quite twisted. AFter about a month now, while writing this I realise that skulls, bones et al are all a part of nature. Maybe Gaudi did have a point. How straight is the world really? But I must say, all great architecture may make you hate it or make you love it, but the reaction is never indifference. Thats where Gaudi wins. Over all the people who come to see his labor of love.

    Next stop was the Guell Park and a dekho at the lizard (????!!!) that Gaudi lovingly designed. The Park was great, another place the Barcelonians love to take a hike but the lizard, not for me. The Souvenier shop is cute though and highly fantastical. After the heavy dose, Gaudi is quite daunting, it was time to get some Paella and a bite of Tapas. La Rambla was the agenda. At the mercy of a cocky chap on La Rambla, we got scammed into a terrible Paella experience, since it tasted like Maggi! With that and a wonderful walk to end the day, the ‘scam city’ of Europe took its final bow as the curtains fell for us.

    P.s. One can never be the same after a brush with Barca. Even with a backdrop of impeccable historical vibe it doesnt overwhelm you, instead it tells you to chill, it inspires you to breathe, to slice into life with your passion, whatever it may be.

  • The historic town of Porto is Portugal at its charming best, it is classified as a World Heritage Site by Unesco and quite rightly so. Staying at a chateau in the suburban town of Alfena meant that we were roughly about 30 minutes from the city centre. The chateau came with two bedrooms, a den, living, dining areas, kitchen and luxurious en suites. In the compound was a swimming pool that opened up from the living room, tennis courts, garages! The energetic and vibrant owner stayed on the estate in a different building. Apart from the facilities we had access to on the estate were a chicken farm, a vegetable garden, an aviary, and a chapel, all built in the 1500s and equipped with a date-stone in etched in Roman numerics. Sebastian, our host took get efforts to keep us comfortable, and interestingly spoke over 11 languages except for English! So we played charades with him and sometimes with the use of IPAD translations conversed with the man aged over 60 but didnt look past 40. Taking it easy in life sure has its perks! His equally lovely wife indulged us as we posed for pictures in their living room that looked nothing short of an antique museum. Despite the distance the unique experience of staying at the beautiful location with warm hosts more than made up for the hard access. Self-driving to the city seemed like a great idea till we bumped into traffic snarls at Porto!

    The train from Alfa to Porto’s Sao Bento station is easy and convenient. Having read much about the Portugese art on the walls of Sao Bento I kept my eyes peeled to take in the art. The blue art work on the walls is very Portugese and soon realised that the whole town was decorated such. Walking through the streets the European proportions catch one’s eye. But by large there is a difference in execution. As buildings huddle next to each other the narrow cobble-stoned streets show great respect to the pedestrian, the ‘Tripeiros’ as Porto citizens are called rarely honk at a slow-coach pedestrian! It served me well as I kept staring into the facades of the buildings that looked completely different from each other in their make. Though there are several references to Haussmanns Paris, the facades of each building are treated much differently making the entire street much like a rigmarole. Possibly the sailors of Porto travelled far and wide, absorbing much of the places they travelled to and later put their unique experiences onto the facades of their homes. The patterns on tiles, the design of grills or even the treatment of balconies varied door to door. Add to the fact that all the buildings seem to reflect the attitude of the people and have no qualms of showing off their signs of ageing, whilst taking it easy!

    The closeness of the River Duoro, the river of Porto and the Atlantic Ocean are reminded on the streets of Porto by lovely sea-gulls showing off their magnificent wing-spans. A friend likened them to crows of India, but witnessing their white soaring wings against the blue blue sky I wouldnt have the heart to say so!!

    On a rocky terrain the hike up and down the city has one burning up all the Portugese diet on the menu. And the crisp winter air does turn one’s nose a bright red. But the walk down to the river is worth the walk infact, doing a walk-about is extremely rewarding as the sights of the city unfold. On the other side of the river is the Cais de Gaia or the district of Gaia. The new, hip neighbourhood of Porto. While taverns and cellars dot the river-side, the famous Porto wine is brought in from the Douro Valley and watering holes along the river do their bit in promoting the Portugese culture. A couple of boats line up along the river to showcase the transportation. A river cruise of the Douro can allow one to appreciate the rocky texture of the city from afar. Their seems to be an order in the chaos. Several bridges or ‘Ponte’s’ connect the two river banks on several levels. By now I realised that the Portugese learnt very well to use their terrain in their cities. Porto the second largest city after Lisbon shows one way of dealing with the terrain while Lisbon exhibits another.

    At the cellars one gets to taste a myriad of Portugese wine that are segregated into levels depending on the drinker. The wine-tasting experience is completed with a card specifically personalising an individual’s taste. Wondering why Porto wine is sweet I got a rather disappointing answer. I mean I was certainly looking for something more fancy than the, “its mixed with brandy”! Well with that the charm of Porto wine broke for me but nevertheless my fellow travellers seemed to love the wine. Even for a teetotaller the whole experience of a wine cellar was rather dreamy and exciting. The four steps to tasting the fermented grape juice is a whole science in itself and a rather bright career choice I am told.

    Along with the watering holes in Cais de Gaia are restaurants that play up to the hype and even better than that roasted chestnut sellers on the street. They were for me the best things I got to eat in Portugal. The roasted chestnuts are sprinkled with salt and make for excellent snacking variety in the cool winter sun. For lunch I stuck with buttered boiled veggies and french fries. Well my only other choice was the ever so available cheese omelette, but give me french toast, give me boiled eggs am so not an omelette person. *crinkling my nose* And yes the amazing varieties of cheese. At this point I may well warn you to administer the amount of cheese cause you may end up with an aversion after the trip.

    Taking on the convenient Red Bus city sightseeing tours, speeds up one’s trip time and allows you to see more or atleast choose your sights. Cafe Majestic, the museums and shopping can easily be covered on this bus. Next up was the Casa de Musica, the building by Rem Koolhaas for the performance arts. Koolhaas provides a major plaza in front of the building where teens and young people skateboard, bicycle and exhibit revolutionary skill level and control on anything with wheels. On the same plaza a music teacher orchestrates an impromptu performance with students of all ages and all kinds of instruments. The passing and stopping crowds including us made for an enthralled audience. I loved the building and did a bit of snooping indoors. Koolhaas rocks the interiors with stainless steel and engages the world outside through breaks and frames in the building.

    Driving by the new part of the city, there are many houses that catch one’s attention, most probably built by the legendary Eduardo Souto de Moura. No prizes for guessing who my new favourite in the architecture world is. The sense of scale, proportion and measure is explored extremely well and walking through his buildings one can see how he deservedly was given the Pritzker Prize.

    The beach had hardly any takers, given the cool waters but did make a setting to sit by. The most amazing thing to do in Porto is to take a walk, in the Park, on the bridges, on the streets, in the pavilions, across the museums, the galleries and possibly everywhere you can! Its one of those places that can largely be covered by foot and where you dont want to be stuck in a snarl, especially given the terrain! The museums usually hold events, the museum of wine had a special tasting event when we were there and getting hold of free passes may be a good idea.

    Each morning and almost always when hungry I would say go for the egg tarts, they may not be as good as the one’s in say Macau, or even Goa, but they probably are original! Sometimes the fusion versions in good taste so much better I tell you. Same in the case of (Indian) Chinese 😉

    The train service from Porto to Lisbon is fantastic and like the Husband rightly pointed out they use the technology that keeps the cabin straight irrespective of the bends or angles!

    Porto is much like any heritage town, so full of surprises and so full of amazing people. It may be one of those places that could be captured much better in a picture, cause words just dont seem enough!

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  • ImageTravelling to far off lands is always a fantasy, and Portugal seemed as far away as ever and similarly as fantastic as ever.

    Flying over a major ocean, handful of seas and two continents we reached the western tip of Europe’s Maritime capital’s bustling city of Lisbon. And probably the only place in Portugal that could fit the adjective. As ‘Take it easy’ and ‘laid-back’ may well be in the constitution of this country where a chilled-out attitude and a refusal to rat-racing seems like a brilliant asset. 

    Travelling to Portugal in late-winter has its charms and challenges. For one winter-wear is extremely fun, then its the time of the year when architecture comes to the fore-front as trees drop their leaves and bare out what I love to see, fewer tourists means more room in the city, there is absolutely no-frizz in the (h)air and boots are in the season. On the other hand lugging woollens mean inflated luggage, the bane of appearing like one reindeer Rudolph with the red-nose and the worst, when coming out of the warm fuzzing blankets is a herculean task. But such is the charm of winter which got me, a summer loving dudette, completely sold on the white shimmering hues of the season.

    The places touched upon in Portugal were Porto, Faro, Tavira, Sagrez, Lagos, Loule and my favorite Lisbon. In the following posts I recount the trip to a country so mild and so nautical not to forget friendly and warm. The Portugese people stole our hearts away as we played charades to converse due to a lack of conversant language. We did see where Goa got its awesomeness from and why it so reluctantly became a part of the Indian Union.

    I did try to learn some phrases in Portugese on the plane, for the record Emirates from Dubai to Lisbon was great, but ended up learning two very important ones, one Sin Carne, means vegetarian and two Obrigado, means thank you.

    And well ‘Oi’ is a hello! 

     

  • Pi Patel intrigues the audience first with a strange name and then with his strange story. The work of Yann Martel is presented on the big screen by none other the spectacular director Ang Lee.

    Patel’s charming beginnings at Pondicherry are depicted with tones of what makes India so marvelous, the diversity. From one religion to another the young Patel sways in and out of naming his Gods. With over 33 million Gods to choose from in Hinduism, to the mighty Allah and the forgiving Christ he is shown as a person of a highly God-loving nature. His very nature is apparently what serves him in the later part of the story. And the setting of the zoo and all the different animals is mostly very engaging.

    Bound on a ship to Canada, Patel is the lone ‘human’ survivor when the ship later wrecks due to a nasty storm. With him for company are a zebra, a hyena, an Orangutan and a fierce tiger named Richard Parker. The next few hours are a wonderful fill of spell-binding imagery. The 227 days that Patel spends shuttling between a raft he makes and the life-boat are fringed with dangerous encounters. When he strikes upon an island and is forced to leave upon finding that the island is carnivorous his sailing adventure begins again.

    The beauty of nature, largely at sea is captured beautifully, the flying fish, the playful dolphins and especially the sighting of a whale under the starry nights. Unlike Patel the audience is treated to the marvelous sights and spared from the bouts of sea-sickness or the harsh sun.

    The journey lends Patel to believe in God. He gathers many other life lessons of hope, being challenged, keeping busy, having a companion and specifically, the importance of letting go.

    If you are a reader, then the book is a must read. Martel writes well. Even so, watch the movie, even without a strong screenplay, its a visual treat. And if you do bite into a slice of Patel’s lessons, even better!

     

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  • The genius mastermind behind innovative and inventive products of today was the star speaker at the World Architecture Festival in Singapore last month.

    In a largely dramatized act he shared with the packed and bursting-from-the-seams-of-the-hall audience his working process and some highly appreciated works. From the quaint red buses of London to the magnificient Olympic Cauldron and then closer home to the new institutional campus in Singapore he made his work sound so simple and so effortless!

    Total recommended reading -Making by Thomas Heatherwick!

    His charm worked on the audience who made an immediate beeline for Heatherwicks book. Signed by the maestro raised the value of the publication by several notches!

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  • Hyderabad is the twin sister of my hometown, Secunderabad, but over the years the two cities have merged into one, well almost. Here’s an article published in today’s edition of the Indian National daily newspaper, the Times of India. Unfortunately I could not find an online link of the published article, but here’s the scripted version.

    And yes, its a bit longer than the printed one.

    A drive through the city of Hyderabad offers what could rightly be touted as a slice of the city’s glorious and diamante past, and what better narrates the story of the evolution of a city better than its architecture!

    Today enrobed in glazed facades and steely exteriors the face of the city has changed tremendously from the age-old bamboo stick building construction employed during the Mauryan reign.  But what is important to note is that the change has been more or less gradual, it is evolutionary in nature, and hardly a gimmicky, fast-sprung, unreasoned make-over.

    Architecture is quite literally the face of a civilisation; it largely depends on cultural, technological and economic imprints. It’s often about making do with what’s available, reachable or largely attainable whether in terms of construction materials or workmanship. The way materials are used also has a huge part to play in the final outcome of building. It largely levers upon the skill of craftsmen and a whole lot of cultural insignia. Different rulers build differently, at times merging completely diverse techniques to create a new style and different time frames bring about whole different meanings to buildings of their eras.

    The Mauryan Empire which was one of the earliest empires in the area mostly built with bamboo sticks, dried leaves, and mud. Barring the rock cut structures in the area surrounding Hyderabad; most of what were buildings then, were an assortment of rooms, zones or a combination of areas. It was the Buddhist period with a large influence of Asoka. When the Bahmanis struck chord after the decline of the Mauryans, there was a surge in the workmanship with stone. But the truly glorious period of architecture, the coming of a Hyderabad’s style unique began during the reign of Qutub Shah’s dynasty. Though the style is Islamic in content it is remarkably different from the Islamic Architecture seen in Northern India. The Deccan Islamic architecture saw a multitude of Islamic explorations with western styles and details. In the North the Islamic monuments were built by a blend of the Islamic ideals and requirements that were moulded in sync with the skill-sets of traditional local craftsmen, in Southern India and Hyderabad specifically the architectural styles were largely moulded on the western lines with Mughal ideals. The blend gives rise to a completely new style in form, some are labelled the Indo-Sarcenic while others are labelled Indo-Persian. It was during this time that the famous Golconda fort, a fine example of an impregnable fortress, an achievement at that time was built. It exhibits both architectural splendour and intelligence in equally fine measures. Having frustrated the furious Mughal emperor Aurangzeb, not just once but a couple of times, it was finally besieged by him only as an outcome of treachery within. The Qutub Shahi tombs are again fine examples of this period. The monument that the city is now very famous for, the Charminar was built by the Qutub Shahi Dynasty, as was the famous Hussain Sagar lake, though the Buddha Statue was added much later! All the monuments were built using lime and granite mortar. They also exhibit fine workmanship and detailing, an import, definitely from Persia.

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    During Aurangzeb’s reign and before the coming the Asaf Jahi or as they are fondly called the Nizams, the architecture scene was quite placid, a fact that could be attributed to the economic downturn. Consequently a period of glory was revived by the Nizams, under whose reign Hyderabad not only flourished but also it was then that Hyderabad’s twin city, Secunderabad was founded. The Osmania University, the Chowmohalla Palace, the King Kothi Palace, the Falaknuma Palace are few examples of the grand architecture during the Nizam age. The Nizam mostly patronised Islamic architecture, culture and the Indo-Persian style was hugely employed.

    During the same celebrated age of the Nizams, Secunderbad was built as a station for first the French and then the British troops. The Army barracks, clubs and homes in and around the younger twin of Hyderabad exhibits tremendous inspiration in architecture style from the English. Though the architectural ideals were direct implants, interestingly they do not serve as true replicas of the originals but are in a league of their own. The famous British bungalows can be found dotted across the Army Cantonment area even today. Wood, brick stone, lime mortar were used but the outcome got in terms of the British bungalows was quite different from the Hyderabad style at that time.

    Though the country had begun to devise ways to drive out the ruling British, the Nizam sought peace within the state even during the tumultuous period of India’s freedom struggle, whether it meant not taking an active part in the struggle or being the proverbial cat on the wall. But that very stance is probably what saved a whole lot of precious architecture from insane destruction. And thus Hyderabad today still has history punctuated within its developing urban fabric.

    With the coming of foreigners into the city’s precincts the trend of using western design ideals was much seen in shophouses, residences and a whole array of buildings. Again much use was made of brick and lime mortar. Rich merchants and tradesmen from the city made frequent travels abroad in the 1920s and 1930s, becoming highly drawn to the world art and architectural movements at that time and brought in these trends at humbler scales into their homes. Art Deco was one of the most popular trends in the city, it began in Paris in the 1920s and is characterised by streamlined building structures and boat-windows. Several examples of the Art Deco style of building are seen in major parts of the city. The houses and shops in Marredpally, Chikkadpally, Rashtrapathi Road are all shining examples of the Art Deco style of architecture, a style that that taken the world by storm at that time. The advent of the style into Hyderabads society is not exactly known but could also be attributed to the habitation of the French and the British troops.

    When the Nizam signed into the Indian Union and Hyderabad was to be made a state capital, the need for an infrastructure was sufficed through new public buildings. At that time the trend and in effect the answer was concrete. It was then that Ambedkar was said to have been thoroughly impressed by the city’s infrastructure and asked for it to be made the second capital of the country after Delhi.

    Many buildings were built during the years of independent India, from infrastructure to housing; to public buildings various styles were implemented. Old monuments built earlier were beginning to be used for other purposes without damaging its structure like the High Court and the Osmania General Hospital. Concrete, was then new and an increasingly important building material. Most of the buildings made of concrete slabs and frames were skinned with brick and painted or clad with stone. Granite was another obvious choice because of its vernacular nature.

     

    A feature that ranks consistently with the history of Hyderabad’s architecture is the penchant that the city has for improvising upon architecture from foreign shores. Add to that the fact that the borrowed ideas are not blindly followed but were applied intelligently to the truest sense of the word.

    The now upmarket Banjara Hills was actually previously the residence and hunting grounds of some members of the Nizam dynasty. After the 1950s, as India turned republic the area began to be plotted and sold as residence, the newer borough, Jubilee Hills was developed in the late 1960s when Challagalla Narasimham was asked to develop a “proper colony”. The Richie-rich ghetto before development was a jungle, well half a century ago! Today the area boasts of not only sky-rocketing property prices but is also a crucible of some fantastic houses designed by architects from the city and the country at large. Whether its sustainable light-shelves, or a seamless extension into nature, inventive courtyards or swanky studded quarters, the western influences are again applied cleverly are demonstrated here. The hills are dotted with beautiful parks and water bodies in a well-set rocky terrain, and could be nothing short of the famed LA mansions that of course if the weather is kind on fine days!

    In between in the 1970s, the famous white marbled Birla Mandir was built by the Ramakrishna Mission. The beautiful temple is perched on a rocky hill, it overlooks a part of the city, offers a mystical image during sunsets with views into the Hussian Sagar and was envisaged as a temple without bells that was to be conducive to meditation.

    After a couple of decades of steadily brewing architecture scene globalisation came knocking as the city warmed up to the dot-com boom. The adaptive city took the newness in its stride when a part of the city was rechristened Cyberabad and Hitec city, it was envisioned by the then Chief Minister as a means to fund the economic promise by offering employment opportunities to boost trade and commerce. The potentials are manifested as techparks, estates and huge multinational offices. Starting off with concrete, a tad of brick and glass the modern futuristic towers now have taken to and boast of several tints of glass, glinting over light and encapsulating the spaced out offices with much élan.

    And in the 21st century is the jewel like glassy Hyderabad airport that seems to be ideated by a largely alien or read western inspiration. As if to provide, a connect, from the touchdown into the city the newer construction are armed with glassy exteriors, sky terraces, and imaginative ideas. And going with the past today it seems like there will be no dearth of foreign influences on Hyderabad’s skyline, but hopefully they will continue to be applied as inventively as in the past if not blindly.

     

    Whether it’s the sparkling Hitec city, the old now humbled shop-houses, trading houses or the Richie-rich hill ghettos, a spark of ingenuity in architecture is found sprinkled across the city. And the evolutionary tale of the city’s history is not only one for the books but it’s something that is preserved with much attenuation as Hyderabad embraces its future without discarding its past. Touche, merci to that!

    As a postscript, INTACH the society for architectural conservation, estimates about 160 heritage-listed buildings in the city and figures that more than 70% of these buildings are in private hands!

    Right so, living in Hyderabad makes one, well, legendary!